A poster hangs on my kitchen wall, a gift from a friend. Pencil-sketched fruits and vegetables surround the words “Wine is Good Food.” Around the border is written “Vintage 01. Markko Vineyard, R.D. 2, South Ridge Road, Conneaut, Ohio.”
The same poster hangs outside the tasting room of Markko Vineyard. It reminds me that Ohio was called “Vinland” by mid-19th settlers because the hills were filled with vineyards, and that Arnie Esterer, who learned about viticulture from Dr. Konstantin Frank of the Finger Lakes, introduced European Vinifera Grapes to the Lake Erie wine appellation.
The winery was founded in 1968 by Arnie Esterer and Tim Hubbard, whom I didn’t get a chance to meet before he died. They had a vision that transformed Ohio’s wine industry. It’s the oldest estate vineyard in Ohio specializing in “noble grapes,” including Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This year marks the fifth anniversary of Arnie Esterer’s death, but his legacy lives on.
Memories. Years ago, we were tasting wine at the winery under the tutelage of Linda Frisbie and had almost given up on meeting Arnie when he walked in, rosy from the exertion of working in the vineyards and holding out a hand with a big smile on his face. When my book Ohio’s Lake Erie Wineries was released, he invited me to bring copies to the winery to sign and sell, and he made the same offer later, during the annual Christmas potluck. Once, when I was assigned to write a profile of him, he served me his own fish chowder with crusty bread and some chardonnay. Another time, my husband and I had an appointment to meet him at the winery on a Sunday, when it was closed, and when he showed up at the winery late, he apologized—he’d been sunbathing in the winter.
The winery is in the woods in a little corner of northeast Ohio with Lake Erie to the north and Pennsylvania to the east. This past weekend my husband and I paid homage to the winery when we drove 75 miles across the top of the state to attend the annual harvest perch fish fry hosted by Arnie’s family. Esterer’s —Dave, Andy, Paul and Katherine—have been keeping the dream alive, even as they look forward to selling the vineyards and winery. It felt like we were saying goodbye.
We parked near South Ridge Road and walked up the driveway, a way of slowing the experience down. The wooded area surrounding the winery was festive–yellow wildflowers decorated picnic tables draped in navy blue. The expanded deck space was inviting, but we sat a few short yards away from the two-piece band playing jazzy popular music and quickly relaxed. We pre-purchased two perch dinners and a bottle of Chardonnay which were served by mostly volunteers. It could not have been a more beautiful day. The mood was mellow. We could have sat there for a couple more hours. Maybe they would bring more tiramisu.
Memories. The first time I met him, he came into the tasting room in work boots and a flannel shirt, rosy from the exertion of working in the vineyards and holding out a hand with a big smile on his face. Once, when I was assigned to write a profile of him, he entertained me with his own fish chowder, crusty bread, and a glass of chardonnay. Another time, my husband and I had an appointment to meet him at the winery on a Sunday, when the winery was closed, and when he showed up at the winery, he apologized—he’d been sunbathing in the winter.
There’s still some wine made by Arnie in the French cellar. It has become precious. We made a silent auction bid for a case of twelve split bottles of 1999 Pinot Noir and lamented that we didn’t win it. Later, Dave Esterer expressed his appreciation for the customers, staff, and volunteers, and spoke about his perfectionist father and how his dad always said his wine stood up against the passing of time. Then the live auction began. Clearly, those that bid hundreds of dollars knew the value of what they would be getting.
They bought the wine because it was made by Arnie Esterer, who took risks by introducing vinifera grapes to the Lake Erie Appellation when native and French hybrid varietals were being grown by the other grape growers in the region. Many of the Lake Erie and Grand River Valley growers now grow European-style vinifera grapes and credit Arnie as their mentor. He started a revolution. Northeast Ohio vineyards are nearly 70 percent Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Pinot Noir and other vinifera grapes. He transformed Ohio’s grape industry.
Recently, the family announced that they are searching for a new owner. Paul Esterer was quoted in The Gazette as saying, “Our family decided we were at a time we needed to decide if we wanted to plant more vines or expand the retail/hospitality end of the business. We wanted the next generation to be part of that decision. In the wine business, you plant grapes and it takes a long time for them to make an impact. We wanted to make that decision thinking about the next hundred years, not the next two.”
The family is committed to keeping the winery open and working with new owners during the transition. The winery is open Fridays and Saturdays from 12-6pm. If you visit, music will be played, and it will be a mellow and enjoyable time. You are welcome. Arnie Esterer is quoted as saying, “Now, our future is with people like you – people who love wine, the good earth that produces it, and the companionship that surrounds it – so come, bring your friends and share these Markko Wines with us.”
