I have been a resident of the Shaker Square area of Cleveland most of my adult life. When I first moved there in the early 1970s I shopped at the Heinies just off the Square. There was a Franklin Simon’s and a Peck and Peck that sold high-end women’s clothing. There was a dress shop on the corner where Dave’s Supermarket is now located that was so exclusive you had to go in and tell them what you were looking for — no racks to browse. On the Van Aken side, there was a Radio Shack, a five-and-dime store, a Revco drugstore and a Chinese restaurant.
First conceived in the early 1920s when Warren Harding was president and women had just recently gotten the vote, Shaker Square was planned to appeal to the upper-class clientele of Shaker Heights. The second oldest shopping center in the nation, it adjoined the Moreland Courts Apartments, all of which had maids’ quarters in each suite and trunk rooms, where residents stored their steamer trunks for world travel.
Those who could afford to drive had a Model T Fords. Most people took public transportation, which was part of the reason for the Square. Originally laid out as a traffic circle for the intersection of Shaker Boulevard and Moreland Boulevard, it was also the junction of the two lines of the Shaker Rapid — one that went to Green Road and the other to Van Aken. The first light rail passenger line to provide access to downtown, it was created by the Van Sweringen Brothers to transport the then-all white and Christian residents of Shaker Heights to downtown Cleveland — no Jews and Black folks allowed.
Shaker Square didn’t even have a movie theater until 1937. That was when the Colony opened. And for the first ten years or so that I lived at the Square, the Colony would have one movie for months at a time. I remember that That’s Entertainment must have run for at least a year — which I could never figure out.
For years at Christmastime, the Square was kind of a mini Nela Park. Annually on the Friday night after Thanksgiving there was a Christmas tree lighting ceremony. People gathered and sang carols and some public official, usually the mayor, would pull the switch to turn on the lights. That stopped years ago when the owners of the Square said that they could not afford the decorations.
When I first moved to my house, just off the Square, there were annual festivals every week or so in summer. My driveway always ended up serving as a parking lot for a variety of friends who had no place to park.
When I was growing up in Cleveland in the 1950s, my family shopped in downtown Cleveland at the May Co., and Higbee’s. In the Old Arcade — one of the first indoor shopping malls in the country — there were exclusive shops. I remember we always had to make a special trip to buy music for our piano lessons because it had the only music store in town.
You could go to 105th and Euclid and take your pick of four or five movie theaters and your choice of restaurants and shops. It was kind of a mini downtown.
I was a teenager when May’s on the Heights opened — which was a big deal. It was also the first nail in the coffin of downtown shopping. Then came Severance Mall. By the time I was an adult, everyone did their shopping at a mall — especially Randall Park Mall, which at one time was the biggest mall in the country.
But by the turn of the 21st century, downtown Cleveland was a ghost town. Cleveland Clinic had taken over 105th and Euclid. The Old Arcade became a hotel. Randall Mall was abandoned; Severance Mall was replaced by a Walmart, and all the while, Shaker Square held on by a thread.
Over the last 25 years or so there have been several attempts to rejuvenate the Square. Joseph Beth Book Store, Chico’s, the Gap, Whole Foods and a few other businesses all came and went. Whether it was the foot traffic or the demographics, these businesses were not a good fit for Shaker Square.
Over the past year I’ve been to several neighborhood meetings to discuss new plans for renovation of the Square. I never felt like the presenters were listening to the residents. The presenters always seemed to have a plan that they had created in a studio somewhere in California or New York that had little or no relevance for Cleveland, its weather and the demographics of the area. Did they really think that people were going to come and sit by fire pits on Shaker Square in the middle of winter? And what happened to the stupid idea of closing Shaker Boulevard?
Recently the City of Cleveland has made a significant investment in the Square. But this past week, two more stores have closed — the coffee shop (which had no public restrooms) and the T Mobile store.
I don’t mean to be Debbie Downer, but I’m beginning to wonder if Shaker Square can be saved. The Square was designed for a generation that lived 100 years ago, when people walked and shopped at specialty shops. Can it compete in a society that does most of its shopping online or at Walmart?
No matter how you reconfigure the Square, you will have parking problems. And I do not believe that the Square can sustain enough restaurants to survive with the lingering effects of the pandemic, Door Dash, fewer people going out to eat, fear of crime, and the cost of dining out.
There are some great minds in our community. Someone needs to come up with a better idea. Maybe the speculation about new housing on the Van Aken side will come to fruition since it is not a part of the historic district. That would bring in residents and fill long abandoned space.
In the early 1970s the City of Akron made a big investment in Quaker Square with a grand opening of shops and hotels in a unique venue. By 2007 it was shuttered and sold to the University of Akron.
Maybe it’s time to consider going back to square one and totally reconfiguring Shaker Square for the 21stcentury. It’s not Colonial Williamsburg. It’s a 100-year-old shopping district in an area that borders on one of the poorest areas of Cleveland with problems of crime and parking.
Apartment buildings that adjoin the Square — on all sides — have been allowed to deteriorate, chasing out lots of tenants. Where is the City of Cleveland Division of Housing that should be forcing some of the absentee landlords to maintain their property?
The problems of the Square are bigger than just the traditional confines of what we consider Shaker Square. Its decline must be considered in the greater context of urban blight, regentrification, aging infrastructure and changing spending habits of the population.
The buildings on the Square are old and in need of repair. The rent is expensive in a time when businesses are downsizing. It has second-floor office space with no elevator access and no security. Anyone can just walk in. Would you really feel safe working there? In this post pandemic era when at least 40% of people work from home, who needs an office?
Shaker Square is not just the problem of residents of Ward 4, Buckeye and the adjoining areas of Shaker Heights. It is a city problem. The mayor and the entire city council need to put their heads together and come up with a solution.
Cleveland needs to realize that we can’t make a Tesla out of a Model T Ford.
C. Ellen Connally is a retired judge of the Cleveland Municipal Court. From 2010 to 2014 she served as the President of the Cuyahoga County Council. An avid reader and student of American history, she serves on the Board of the Ohio History Connection, is currently vice president of the Cuyahoga County Soldiers and Sailors Monument Commission and president of the Cleveland Civil War Round Table. She holds degrees from BGSU, CSU and is all but dissertation for a PhD from the University of Akron.
14 Responses to “Can Shaker Square Be Saved? by C. Ellen Connally”
J Redrick
Save the Square from further deterioration. Listen to the Judge . She’s for all people’s interest, and spend to progression in economic development. Stop trying to hold onto the last strand of hair to a bald head. It’s not a good look and does not help as a whole. . Very interesting history with truth. You sugar coated nothing.
John Roberts
Good comments Judge. There also was small Halles (In the 60s) in the building where the architect’s office used to be.
Mel Maurer
As a one time born and raised on the east side, I can relate to all the memories you shared in this article. Shaker Square has always been a special place but it’s obvious, that it is no more – as so well pointed out in your article. I hope it can be saved but it will take Clevelanders to do so, not with one store at a time but with an intelligent, well financed project to so. Or else, as you suggest it will be lost.
John C Russo
Enjoyed the information provided. Insightful and thought provoking. ( BGSU 1991 )
Tom
Ms. Connally, while I agree with your premise that the Square likely cannot be saved, I disagree your assessment that the previous groups that presented plans “had their own ideas”. I was on several of these committees l, as well. and while most of these groups were not local, they were always mindful of what the Square means to the neighborhood and always took the input from residents, local merchants and other community leaders to help formulate their plans. in many cases, ideas like closing Shaker Blvd., which you called “stupid”, were based on this feedback. In order to create community space and potentially reconfigure the square, this closing might be necessary. You are advocating for community leaders to come up with an innovative plan, so you will need to understand that some of this out-of-the-box thinking such as this will be required or the Square will likely close.
Judge s saffold
Truly one of your best articles. It begs the question while reminding all of us of its former glamour and fun. I hope you arouse the interest of many to actually help this previous gem
Earl
I ran the coffee shop at shaker square in 1974 and 1975. We were open 24 hours a day 7 days a week. The crime got bad so I started to close at 9 pm. When I arrived at 6 am to open the store, many of my windows were broken. It was scary. However, I had such a GREAT customer base. Everyone who lived in the apartments came in daily. Also every attorney who worked downtown, parked their car in the area and rode the rapid downtown. So many great memories. I truly hope someone or somebody can revitalize it. I think it would be a GREAT SENIOR community living area.
Marc
I have lived at the square for over 23 years. Very challenging situation to be sure, given that the retail configuration is obsolete and ill matched to current demographics. However, the consistent support in terms of policy commitment, public dollars, advocacy, and sentimental attachment suggests that nobody is ready to give up. What’s more, given all the obstacles, the occupancy rate remains impressive–over 80% I believe. The dreadfully laid out Bigby’s replaced a much beloved coffee shop and never was going to work. Constant turnover is a fact of life even in upscale lifestyle centers. Just the cost of doing business. Therefore, a better question might be, can we afford not to save Shaker Square? So far, the consensus seem to be no.
Dewey
All thoughtful input. I have a few comments since I had the coffee house there for close to 15 years. I don’t believe the area can work with the priority being security. Not just rent a cop security that we had but cleveland and shaker hts should provide a team effort. It would be even better to have a satellite police station located in the square. Second I think it needs to be run by the city or a non profit. I don’t believe it can be run as a for profit any longer. The expenses are just too great. I was one who thought the out of the box ideas was good to explore with more public space and closing Shaker Blvd on a schedule. City of cleveland should provide a parking garage. I grew up in shaker and frequented the square. I so want the square to work and still think it can.
Michael Feigenbaum
The facts are that Shaker Square could have been a beacon of enlightened commerce if it had been transformed into a commercial condominium style model. A management company would be hired to oversee maintenance and repair and administer daily operations. Each parcel would be owned by the business owner individually. Small business owners could thrive. My own business was successfully operating when the incompetent developers took over from a Larry Albert in the late 1999 deal that forced me out. At this point it is still the best and only option
Dewey
Point of order. I meant to say I don’t think Shaket square has a chance of working WITHOUT proper security, which should include way better exterior lighting. I do believe Shaker Square can rise again.
Mark
My job during high school in 1972 was at The Colony Theater, so I can answer the question about why movies ran for months. The Colony was part of the old-school Hollywood system when the studio operated their own movie theaters. In the Colony’s case, the theater was owned by Warner Brothers. Movies Warner produced (or agreed to distribute that were created by independent producers) were signed for months until the interest waned. It was somewhat modeled after how Broadway ran; shows were staged for months/years. I worked several engagements at the Colony, including Fiddler On The Roof and Man of LaMancha, both ran about 3 months each. I was only 17 when Last Tango in Paris was playing, and it had an X rating, so they (happily) ended my tenure. I say “happily” because the manager of the theater did NOT want to hire a Black kid as an usher, but she was forced to because I had previously worked at Warner’s landmark theater on Broadway in NYC and she had no choice.
Which brings me to the current dilemma of the Square. It must choose their audience. It’s either going to cater to the erudite whites of Shaker; or the less well-heeled Black folks of Buckeye and Ludlow. The last time it was vital was the late 90s and early 2000s when it was an entertainment hub built around restaurants and bars. It’s proximity to Larchmere and Coventry–and even University Circle–made it part of what I once called my “Friday night rounds”. I’d start on Larchmere (the old Grist Mill and later The Tavern), then perhaps The Boarding House or Club Isabella in University; maybe Turkey Ridge on Coventry, then end up at The Reason Why on Shaker Square. Now, I’d be hard-pressed to recreate that.
So, to survive, The Square needs to give up on retail and concentrate on converting the office space to housing and work with the Moreland landloards to renovate their buildings to attract tenets with meager financial resources. The storefronts need to be restaurants and service oriented. Most important, the hope that they’ll attract the upper-crust of Shaker and Cleveland Heights is folly–they’re shopping at Cedar-Center and Legacy Village. Or Amazon! They need to mirror the success and vision of Shaker with it’s new “downtown” concept at the end of the Blue Line at Warrensville/Chagrin/Van Aken. The Square could be a closer option for the young folks who work downtown and want to live where public transportation is available. In a perfect world, someone would build a high rise (or medium rise) residence hall with views of downtown somewhere in the area; perhaps just 8-10 stories to rival those of upper Shaker Boulevard at Coventry.
Diane Krejsa
Excellent article Judge Connolly. As a Ludlow Elementary School teenager, I walked to Wade’s Records to listen to records, and watch movies at the Colony. I shopped at Pappagallo’s and collected the pieces to my Christmas manger at the 5 & 10. My father worked at the architectural firm located at the Square for several years, and my family at at Clark’s Restaurant after church on Sundays. The Square is a national treasure. Every effort should be made to update and preserve it. Other cities have had done success with models that combine nearby condominium housing with mixed use retail and business. But most of these models also have the advantage of nearby university communities and hospitals. A non-profit to support monthly events at the Square for families would also help. I trust Clevelanders will continue to explore options to preserve this historic, architectural & commercial wonder!
Mark
A very thought provoking article/commrntary..commentary… I grew up 7 houses from Ludlow Elementsry school, attended Shaker Hts schools K-12 from 1963-76. My mother sold some of the first houses that racially integrated Shaker Hts.
All the memories mentioned above and by Jufge Connally made me very nostalgic, and sad, having watched both evolution and deterioration happen to that whole area. Yes landlord’s, absentee or not, very some of the blame, “white flight” to Beachwood and beyond etc and terrible planning by the line of developers who took over with their “own ideas”.
It seems to me there is a different demographic living around the Sq. That has not at all been really explored i.e., Gen Z and Millennials who have a very different world view and take on community. I think tapping into that, along with serious collaboration between cities of Cleveland and Shaker Hts is what is going to save Shaker Sq.