In the middle of the five-acre vineyard is a crooked tree surrounded by neat rows of vineyards. It’s been there for who knows how long, but its survival gave Janet and Steve Wermuth’s Crooked Tree Vineyard its name. The property is on the southeast shore of Kelley’s Island on Lakeshore Drive.
When they started the winery, their dream was to show their appreciation of good dry red wines in a place where visitors expect sweet white wines.
“Our goal was to make a full-bodied dry Ohio red wine from the growing of the grapes to the production of the wine,” Jan says. “Based on guest feedback, we have succeeded in that mission. Over the past eight years, we have developed a selection of eight wines, from our bold Cabernet Franc to sweeter selections.”
The couple established their vineyards in 2013 when they planted their first vines. After three years of nurturing the vines, the grapes were distributed to local Lake Erie Wine Region winemakers.
“Pleased with the success of our vineyard,” Janet explained, “we decided to turn our focus to creating red wines that we would enjoy drinking and sharing with friends.”
In November 2017 they harvested the grapes that became their Cabernet Franc and Raccoon Red (a blend of the Cabernet Franc and Chambourcin grapes) wines. Now the red wine selection also includes Eagles Eyrie, Four Sisters Red, and an Island Rose, all made with Chambourcin grapes. Island Blossom White and White Caps wines are made from Lake Erie Trimanette grapes, and a semi-sweet Chardonnay softens out the menu.
On a summer Saturday, family members and I caught the 11:30am ferry to Kelley’s Island. We wanted to be on time for the 12:30 slow-flow yoga class taught by Stacy Taylor Notestine with Sunshine Yoga and Wellness. The class is taught on the pavilion patio and the difficulty level feels just right for anyone who wants to become stretched and restored. The pavilion filled up quickly with the regular following of yogis. Afterwards, we all relaxed in Adirondack chairs with glasses of wine, included as part of the class. Set back from the road on a road that looks like it leads nowhere for a moment, the winery provides a quiet spot to visit, with a vineyard view before official opening time.
We went island exploring with our golf cart and returned a couple of hours later to find the winery occupied by a good crowd. Tables and chairs were filled, umbrellas mostly up, and bottles open, almost gone. The winery closed at six, but people didn’t want to leave. Most of them knew each other and were catching up on the most recent news.
“We are honored by the customers who return year after year. It makes me smile to recognize a face…the highest compliment are the repeat customers and referrals,” Jan says.
Crooked Tree joins Monarch Winery and Kelley’s Island Wine Co., both named after historic 19th-century wineries, as an island destination. Originally settled by German immigrants, island owners have cultivated vineyards and made wines since the mid-19th century, with the grape growers’ cooperative known as Kelley’s Island Wine Co. leading the way. The beautiful stone multi-storied winery was a fortress that processed about 350,000 gallons of wine pressed from local grapes.
“The island had six large wineries and four brandy distilleries by 1914,” writes Kelley’s Island Historical Preservation Corporation. Monarch, which had a deep history on the island, survived Prohibition by making and selling grape juice, a common practice at the time. It emerged as the only winery until 1950, when it closed. Both wineries are now in ruins — it’s worth visiting them to know imagine the island life 150 years.
The couple is busy with their winery operation, doing most of the work with family-member volunteers volunteering their time serving customers on the weekends. The vineyard is hand-tended: Steve and Jan do all the pruning, root protection, and harvesting with minimal help. When the winery’s open, they are welcoming hosts who like to talk about their experiences and share information on their wines, the vineyards, and the wine-making process. The winery is open from 6-9pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays and from 2-6pm on Fridays and Saturdays through August 31. Its hours are from 2-6pm on Fridays and Saturdays in September. Find out more at crookedtreevineyard.com.
Claudia J. Taller is the author of Ohio’s Lake Erie Wineries and Ohio’s Canal Country Wineries, which can be found at http://claudiajtaller.com/ or on Amazon.